Floorcoat 1:1

Epoxy Floor Coating - Easymix 1:1

Epoxy Floorcoat

ELIMINATES HOT TYRE PICKUP FOR AIRCRAFT HANGARS, GARAGES, etc
ANTI SLIP FLOORS to AS/NZS 3661.1P:1993
WATERBLAST SAFE

FLOORCOAT is a 100% epoxy, 2-component system formulated for the protection of concrete floors. Good abrasion resistance contributes to a long service life in heavy traffic areas. Can be tinted in a range of attractive pastel and midtone colours. Suitable for low odour application in food grade areas. A resilient surface ensures easy cleaning with no fungal attack.

When applied as per the procedure outlined in the “Application” data sheet, In lieu of the smooth top coat, a non-slip coating to attain or exceed AS/NZS 3661.1P:1993 coefficient of friction – wet, “0.40”, is achievable.


  • Commercial showroom and warehouse floors. Easily cleaned office or production flooring
  • In industrial sites concerned with pulp and paper, wool scouring, automotive, chemical, oil, food, wine and beverage, abattoirs, sewerage treatment, light engineering
  • Hospitals and veterinaries
  • Home garages with concrete floors
  • Vessel steel floor passageways, interior decks, engine-room floors, hold floors
  • Aircraft hangar floors

APPEARANCE
Light Grey, Dark Grey, White and Deep base. White and Deep base are tintable to a large range of pastel and bright colours. A tinting charge applies. Not recommended for exterior use unless some surface chalking is acceptable. Chalking will not affect the physical or chemical resistance.

CHEMICAL RESISTANCE
Good splash resistance to most acids, alkalis and solvents, but may discolour. Excellent to mineral and vegetable oils and foodstuffs. Good to wines and beverages.

Two. 2 litres of Resin and 2 litres of hardener.

MIXING RATIO
Resin : Hardener
100 : 100

By volume. 1 part resin to 1 part hardener by volume. Correct ratio must be used. NEVER overdose the resin with extra hardener. Varying will decrease cured properties usually evidenced by a greasy surface and soft film that lifts easily. This is an operator error, not a problem with the paint!

POT LIFE
100 gm mass at 18oC 20 - 30 minutes. A polymerising visible end of pot life is preceded by the mix thickening to an unusable gel. A normal occurrence for 2-component systems. Use small amounts (1 - 2 litres) regularly as a large mass, left to stand, will prematurely gel.

CURE
When mixed and applied correctly, Floorcoat will cure overnight at ambient temperatures. Light traffic may use the area after 24 hours when the temperature is above twelve degrees Celsius (10°C). Use forced hot air heating if necessary. @ 20°C.

Recoat : 10 - 12 hours (overnight)
Reinstatement : 24 hours
Fully cured : 4 - 5 days

PRIMER
There is no need for a separate primer as Floorcoat is self priming on clean, sound floors. Surface tolerant. Floorcoat will coat most substrates, concrete, wood, previous paint, even old linoleum, as long as it is clean and sound.

COVERAGE
8 - 10 sq.m /litre. First coat onto concrete will have higher litre rate because of absorption.

PREPARATION
It is essential that the substrate is sound and clean. The adhesive performance of the epoxy will be affected on a poorly prepared surface. Vacuum or sweep the substrate to remove all laitance or loose material. Degrease if necessary with a detergent. Rinse thoroughly. Allow to dry.

New Concrete Floors : The concrete should be allowed to cure for 28 days. Curing compounds and sealers must be removed from the surface. Etch the surface with Concrete Floorprep detergent-acid, available from EPG. Repair damage and fill joints with Epoxypatch.

Previously Painted Concrete Floors : Sand off unsound paint. If the floor is damaged, repair with EPG Epoxypatch. Degrease if necessary with a detergent. Rinse thoroughly. Allow to dry.

Tiles : Ensure all grouting is sound. Reinstate if appropriate. Rinse and/or vacuum. Ceramic glazes on kiln fired tiles must be sweep blasted to allow Floorcoat to adhere.

Steel : Degrease. Rinse off. Abrasive blast clean with clean silica sand to AS1627.4 to remove all mill scale and rust. If blast cleaning is not practical, use mechanical cleaning, e.g. disc grinding, scabbling, needle gunning or wire brushing. Coat immediately with Inorganic Zinc Primer, as the rust barrier.

There is a comprehensive “application” data sheet available from EPG.
Stir the resin and hardener parts thoroughly before combining. Add the two components at the correct ratio into a clean dry container. Thinning with Floorcoat epoxy solvent. 5-10% will assist the flow and make cutting in easier. (= smoother finish)
Stir thoroughly until completely combined.

Cut in along walls, etc., with small paint brush. 50-60mm flat pigs bristle disposable available from hardware. Use a 6-10mm “Dacron” paint roller to apply. Work paint in well. First coat doesn't have to be thick coat. Work quickly as paint will gel after 25-30 minutes.
Pour thin line of paint one metre out from back wall and roll out, working backwards.
Recommended two person job. One cutting in.

In hot and dry conditions use smaller mixes more often. Do not add a new mixture into one that is gelling as they will both polymerise.

Floorcoat is a technical product, generally for trade purposes. Care must be exercised in its use. DO NOT apply in extreme cold and damp conditions; temperature below 8°C, and relative humidity of +85%.

CLEAN UP
Use Epoxy Solvent, available from hardware store, for clean up. Wrap and dispose brushes and rollers. Use disposable containers and spatula

Do not store near boilers or other sources of heat.
Do not store in direct sunlight.

2lt Resin + 2lt Hardener + 1lt Epoxy solvent = 5.0 litre pack
2 x 4 litre packs are required for a double garage floor for the recommended 2 coats, paint finish.

Can I paint my own floor?

You probably have a job that involves knowledge and skill. Other people without these skill-sets will find your job daunting. Same thing when considering painting a floor.

We make it easy for you. We can supply the paint to the colour you want, and the specialist knowledge in a plain English Application guide. You can save a bundle by doing it yourself.

Why an epoxy like FLOORCOAT?

Solventless and high solids epoxy floor paints are the strongest type of floor coating in general, industrial use. That’s why we chose them for your use. And CONCRETE FLOORPREP for cleaning and EPOXYPATCH for cracks and joints. Although care is needed in their mixing and application, the benefits outweigh this. They are very strong because they chemically cross-link to cure Their adhesion to a properly prepared substrate is exceptional. The High Solids epoxies like FLOORCOAT are thicker in cured form than ordinary solvent based epoxies.

Where can I use FLOORCOAT?

This is an interior paint, as are all epoxies. They tend to oxidise and colour shift in exterior situations. They will still be strong, but without the fresh looks of, say, an acrylic, over time.
Best for use in garages, and factories, but not on exterior decks or driveways.
Acrylic elastomerics for decks, oxide stains and solution acrylics for driveways.

What about on timber?

FLOORCOAT is used extensively on timber floors, particle board and solid wood. We have even used it successfully over vinyl.

Why is there a separate thinners?

Because some people prefer to use Floorcoat with as high solids as possible we ship the thinners in a separate container. Keep in mind it applies very easily without thinners. Others, especially cost consious, like to thin and stretch the paint a bit further.

Are they expensive?

Consider this : FLOORCOAT is almost 90% solids so most of it is paint. The balance is mainly water plus alcohol/solvent and surfactants (soaps) Other paint of similar pack price but only 60% solids content actually contains 40% solvent. Once the solvent (40% of the volume) has evaporated you are only left with only 60% of the paint. It’s a shame you paid all that money for solvent.

Water based Epoxy?

FLOORCOAT has some water in the system and is therefore regarded as water based. It is non flammable. But it does not wash up in the same manner as water based house paints. The reason for this is the more water soluble an epoxy paint is, the more soap (to make it soluble) it generally has. This also tends to weaken the cured film, and make it water soluble. The water based solvent thinners supplied with the pack can be used to wash out brushes, etc after the job is completed.

Are epoxy paints toxic?

Yes they can be, if used improperly.
Care should be exercised with all paints, especially those containing solvents. There is a heap of common sense handling instructions on the label, in the data sheet, and a bit more about the constituent materials in the Material Safety Data Sheet available here.

How about the dreaded HOT TYRE PICKUP?

Some floor paints should be embarrassed to call themselves that. Drive onto them after the tyres have warmed up, and when you leave in the morning, the paint goes with you.
Relax. FLOORCOAT is strong, and resists HOT TYRE PICKUP, and WATER SPOTTING, as long as the floor has been properly prepared, and the paint is mixed and applied according to the instructions.

And solvents?

Ditto for solvents, although some marring may occur. It begs the question. what are you doing throwing solvent around? FLOORCOAT won’t dissolve like most one pot floor paints. The resin and hardener form an infusible, thermoset polymer, and this reaction is irreversible. Strong, Strong, Strong.

I've bought my paint, now what?

We offer a comprehensive “Step by Step” guide to applying FLOORCOAT, online and in the packaging.

What special tools and equipment are required?

Nothing special actually. There is a list with the Application guide, and your local hardware/paint store stocks most of the tools.

Is preparation important?

You bet. Don’t waste your money applying FLOORCOAT over a poorly prepared substrate. If there is oil on the floor, FLOORCOAT will not bond properly. If there is loose paint, this will lift and take the FLOORCOAT. Use CONCRETE FLOORPREP for etching and cleaning concrete. Read the Application guide.

What about the cracks and joints?

We have a concrete patching compound for fixing cracks and joints. EPOXYPATCH.
An easymix 1:1 system for ease of use. Yes, it is generally OK to fill expansion joints as EPOXYPATCH has some flexibility, most floors have finished any movement after a few months, and it looks so much better.
Food prep and hygiene areas demand it.

Once the resin and hardener are mixed?

FLOORCOAT gels quicker than most 2 pot paints because it is 90% solids. There is little solvent present to slow down the reaction. This is good as the coating cures quicker on the floor also.

Two coats versus one?

Concrete tends to be porous, and the first coat will soak in to seal this. There may be areas that look dry. You need two coats to eliminate the dry areas. Also, the thicker film build will not wear as quickly. Do you really want to unpack the garage to recoat after a few years? We think not.

How soon can I use the floor?

If you paint during the summer months, it will be OK to walk on next day.
Leave cars off for the first 2-3 days to allow the FLOORCOAT to harden up.

Any special cleaning or maintenance requirements?

Clean with soap and water just like vinyl.
Polish if you like with a good acrylic liquid floor polish.